Because it is impossible to cut out a piece from the alloy profile of the roof edge with a jigsaw I had to go the hard way: First cut upwards with a saw or a side cutter, that is very difficult. Than scratch along the top edge of the profile with - for example - a sharp broach for some dozen times. After that bend it forward and backward with a big pincer until the alloy breaks at the scratched line.

Here the finished cutout for the side doors. The breakline is to be cleaned with a side cutter and a file until it is straight. The side doors can be closed completely now like before turning the roof.

In the first attempt the roof was displaced at the back end for about one centimeter. To correct that it had to be dismounted and adjusted fine before sealing the edges.

Here the screws from the front roof edge - without nut - and the slightly longer ones from the roof edge at the back end - with nut and second mounting support. Don't mix them up. A 13mm wrench fits to the inch-screws.

To give the roof support against sagging while sealing it I used some roof battens for a helping construction. With a similar construction I moved the roof sideways in the back end: I just wedged a slightly longer roof batten between the main roof frame top left and body frame on the right side until the roof was moved sideways to the right position.

Here the back end of the roof with polymer sealing. Before fixing the roof coat the edges with polymer, then tighten the all the screws clockwise turn for turn equaly, until everything is tight. After that fill the slot from outside and even it.

The same for the front hemline of the roof. Again: All screws have to be tightened together for one turn in every step, to keep the load distributed over all the screws until everything is tight.

Here again the back end from inside with the roof hatch neraby. These hemlines are sealed very well now.