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Autor | Thema: Advice to reduce Transmission Noise of TGB (Gelesen 3480 mal) | |||
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Dear Members,
Now that I have finally have my TGB on the road, I am finding the Transmission noise very hard to live with. The noise is a whine. It appears to be worse due to drumming of the rear cabin. I do not have any comparison to what the noise level is supposed to be and am not sure if the noise is due to Straight cut gears of the Portal axles or worn Bearings in the axles or the gearbox transfer case. Can any one suggest tests I can do to isolate the where the noise is coming from? If you listen to noise outside the truck it is not so bad. Also I have noticed a drivetrain vibration around 35-40Kph which reduces as I go above this speed. Cheers Johnny | ||||
johnny
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first check if you really drive without 4-wheel on the road. Maybe offset dosen´t work?
Than tray without the front "kardanwelle" (dosen´t know in english...). I dont think it is the gearbox...check the bearings at first. der Harms | ||||
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Thank you der Harms, I will try without front "kardanwelle" . I think you mean without front wheel drive engaged. with the engine off I should be able to jack up the 2 front wheels off the ground and see if front prop shaft rotates freely when it is in gear.
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johnny
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As I remenber: No! (please someone correct me if I am wrong) With the engine off there is no vacuum in the 4wd-System, that means the 4wd is engaged allways. This is the way the hand brake on the back kardanaxle is working on all wheels. The 4wd-effect is not so important. If you are driving, the front kardan axle is driven passively from the front wheels. If not, you could not engage 4wd while driving, because the speed difference between front and back kardan axle would be to high. Normally the speed of both drive shafts is nearly equal. To check the front drive nois: remove the front cardan axle. Be carefull, it MUST be fitted together in the same position, because it is weighted (?), I mean it is measured and fitted against rotational vibration. If the vibration is gone without front cardan axle this one should be fitted together in the correct way (but you have no way to get it) or has to be measured and fitted in a special garage to get the right conterweights. The rest: Portal gears, diffs, tyres and ventilator etc. are really loud. Only proper isolation and damping will help. To silence the car inside take off the panels and glue something damping onto the flat surfaces. I did the top half with old carpet tiles (50x50cm with rubber backside, 1,3 kg per tile) which gives a nice sky inside. To glue it I took some bitumen glue like sikaflex, which can hold the tile under the roof just by the sucking effect. The bottom and the sides up to the middle of the doors I took foam-isolation to glue it (waterproof) and a layer of wood (1,6 cm) for the bootom and 0.9 cm around at the sides and on top of the wheel house. In the front cabin I only isolated the doors and the roof witch carpet tiles and the moveable cover between the seats got new isolation from below and only 1mm foam and plastic-leather on top. Result: I nearly hear nothing from behind. I can drive without ear-plugs and talk without yelling. I can hear the front ventilator pumping air an the little damage on the bearring of the generator at some refs. It is still loud from the original tyres. good luck michael | ||||
"oh, for sure, you can do it with a normal streetcar...."
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Thank you Michael. Good Idea using the tiles for noise insulation.
I will do some research on Noise dampening materials to see if there is a suitable material that does not cost the earth. I will take off the cardan axles (we call them propellor shaft for some reason in Aussie and USA) and get them balanced as a precaution. I have to remove the front one anyway as the sliding joint rubber boot has developed a split and I have spare boots from Tananka. I read somewhere in past thread that there should be 2 arrows facing each other to engage the original splines--is this correct? If I cant find arrows I will mark with a scribe before I send off to rebalance. cheers Johnny | ||||
johnny
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I did not find the advice how to fit the propeller shaft together in the
maintenance book. But it is mentioned, that it can be unbalanced if the protecting rubber of the slide joint is filled with too much greaso or even if this rubber is deformed somehow. If that matters, it will be important how to mount the shaft together. If it is balanced correctly, there will be inbalcance, if it is fitted with one part rotated for 180°, what will look ok and fit ok. michael | ||||
"oh, for sure, you can do it with a normal streetcar...."
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Michaels-Volvo-Offroader-Forum | ALLGEMEINES | Ausbau / modifications | « vorheriges Thema folgendes Thema » |