Does any of the (few) Russians on this forum have any idea what kind of tractor-tyres many of the offroad cars use here?
Brand, and most importantly size & speed rating?
Not necessarily a 16" rim, probably at least 18", perhaps 20".
(no factory steel rims, all alloy, probably for this very reason)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXFiK5VZ-YU

Hat einer von den Russen auf dieses Forum eine Idee welcher Art Traktor-Reifen hier benuetzt werden, auf viele der Gelaendewagen?
Marke, und noch wichtiger Groesse & Geschwindigkeits-Index?
Sind nicht unbedingt 16" Felgen, eher 18" oder gar 20".
(sind auch keine werksmaessige Stahlreifen, alles Leichtmetall, wohl nur deshalb)

das Video Existiert nicht  laut  YouTube !!

wenn du da  Video mit den Patrols und  dicos  usw meinst das  sind  20 " As    warsch  340/20"

Zitat von: volvo666 am 13.Januar 2016 16:19:30

das Video Existiert nicht  laut  YouTube !!

Hab den URL repariert/gezuegelt; unsere Server mochte den Bindestrich nicht....;))

Zitat von: volvo666 am 13.Januar 2016 16:28:24

wenn du da  Video mit den Patrols und  dicos  usw meinst das  sind  20 " As    warsch  340/20"

Scheint aber ein neues Profil, mehr Traktor als LKW; das alte/klassische Russische Muester hat keine glatte 'Kammen', ist am Rand weniger eckig abgeschnitten, und die Kammen liefen etwas 'kreuz' in einander ueber.
Eben auch deshalb meine Frage bezueglich Geschwindigkeitsindex....;))
(aus EU-Produktion gibt es meines wissens nur ein einziges 16" Traktorprofil (mit genuegend Hoehe) dass 90km/h zulaesst, alles andere endet bei 40km/h ('A8'))

I am not Russian, but I know that those tyres are BELSHINA, made in Beloruss, intended for tractor use. It's diameter is 36 inch, rated max speed is 40km, (as it was already mentioned here), but could be driven on paved road till 70-75 km/h. I am using them on my TGB 1111 for 5 years already. Here is link installed them on Volvo from my last competition:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtPiTk-w2LI

Greetings from Georgia.

I made google translation in German language just in case:

Ich bin nicht russisch, aber ich weiß, dass diese Reifen BELSHINA sind, gemacht in Beloruss, bestimmt für Traktorgebrauch. Der Durchmesser beträgt 36 Zoll, die Höchstgeschwindigkeit beträgt 40 km (wie bereits erwähnt), konnte aber auf einer gepflasterten Straße bis 70-75 km / h gefahren werden. Ich benutze sie auf meinem TGB 1111 schon seit 5 Jahren. Hier ist Link installiert sie auf Volvo aus meinem letzten Wettbewerb:

Zitat von: Irakli am 16.Oktober 2016 22:36:44

I am not Russian, but I know that those tyres are BELSHINA, made in Beloruss, intended for tractor use. It's diameter is 36 inch, rated max speed is 40km, (as it was already mentioned here), but could be driven on paved road till 70-75 km/h. I am using them on my TGB 1111 for 5 years already. Here is link installed them on Volvo from my last competition: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtPiTk-w2LI Greetings from Georgia. I made google translation in German language just in case: Ich bin nicht russisch, aber ich weiß, dass diese Reifen BELSHINA sind, gemacht in Beloruss, bestimmt für Traktorgebrauch. Der Durchmesser beträgt 36 Zoll, die Höchstgeschwindigkeit beträgt 40 km (wie bereits erwähnt), konnte aber auf einer gepflasterten Straße bis 70-75 km / h gefahren werden. Ich benutze sie auf meinem TGB 1111 schon seit 5 Jahren. Hier ist Link installiert sie auf Volvo aus meinem letzten Wettbewerb:

Let me rephrase your URL with {url} / {/url}, since the forums-software didn't like the dash/hyphen inbetween....;))
(ha, I also just learned the difference between dash & hyphen....:))

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtPiTk-w2LI

Btw, what is the exact numerical description of this tire?
Not 16", are they?
And what load-rating?

As for 40km/h limitation: even officially/legally, there is a (UN/ECE) table listing speed versus loadrating: exceeding either one can be done, when taking more margin with the other; like higher speed with lower (max) load, and more load with lower (max) speed.
(but not a factor 2 sadly, only like 20%, IIRC....but it does give a good indication of safety margins, when dealing with very high loadratings, being relatively overkill on a Volvo.

Btw, in the Belshina PDF catalog, I see also a 12.4-16 (FBel-160M), 930mm tall, but A6 (30km/h), not A8.

http://www.belshina.eu/en/tyres-for-tractors-and-implements

Zitat von: WJM am 17.Oktober 2016 01:38:35

Let me rephrase your URL with {url} / {/url}, since the forums-software didn't like the dash/hyphen inbetween....;)) (ha, I also just learned the difference between dash & hyphen....:)) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtPiTk-w2LI Btw, what is the exact numerical description of this tire? Not 16", are they? And what load-rating? As for 40km/h limitation: even officially/legally, there is a (UN/ECE) table listing speed versus loadrating: exceeding either one can be done, when taking more margin with the other; like higher speed with lower (max) load, and more load with lower (max) speed. (but not a factor 2 sadly, only like 20%, IIRC....but it does give a good indication of safety margins, when dealing with very high loadratings, being relatively overkill on a Volvo. Btw, in the Belshina PDF catalog, I see also a 12.4-16 (FBel-160M), 930mm tall, but A6 (30km/h), not A8. http://www.belshina.eu/en/tyres-for-tractors-and-implements

Thank you for correcting the link.

That is the tyre - FBel-160M, maximum speed 30km/h? maybe that is the reason why they are so loud after 75km/h ) actually they are very good in the mud, almost as good as boggers, with very budget price  (it was priced for EUR 100-110 at that time)

I have installed badlocks on volvo rims and can lower pressure to 0.5 Bar. however noticed that engine does not have sufficient torque for such pressure. So I do not go down for more than 0.8 Bar.

Zitat von: Irakli am 18.Oktober 2016 19:1:53

Zitat von: WJM am 17.Oktober 2016 01:38:35 Btw, in the Belshina PDF catalog, I see also a 12.4-16 (FBel-160M), 930mm tall, but A6 (30km/h), not A8. http://www.belshina.eu/en/tyres-for-tractors-and-implements Thank you for correcting the link. That is the tyre - FBel-160M, maximum speed 30km/h? maybe that is the reason why they are so loud after 75km/h ) actually they are very good in the mud, almost as good as boggers, with very budget price  (it was priced for EUR 100-110 at that time) I have installed badlocks on volvo rims and can lower pressure to 0.5 Bar. however noticed that engine does not have sufficient torque for such pressure. So I do not go down for more than 0.8 Bar.

You could keep the range 0,5-0,0 bar for emergencies, after getting stuck....:))
(like in endless deep sand, no retraction possibilities, other than second car)

Btw, the high-speed (90km/h) agriculture tire I mentioned has a 3-4x higher price, IIRC.
(Continental AC-70 G, 285/80 R 16 MPT (114/G) & 265/70 R 16 MPT (126/G))
(however, I have also seen the first size with a load index 132 (2000kg))
(which then raises the question how wear-restistant those would be, on an overall 2-4x lighter Volvo)

Zitat von: Irakli am 18.Oktober 2016 19:1:53

Zitat von: WJM am 17.Oktober 2016 01:38:35 Btw, in the Belshina PDF catalog, I see also a 12.4-16 (FBel-160M), 930mm tall, but A6 (30km/h), not A8. http://www.belshina.eu/en/tyres-for-tractors-and-implements Thank you for correcting the link. That is the tyre - FBel-160M, maximum speed 30km/h? maybe that is the reason why they are so loud after 75km/h ) actually they are very good in the mud, almost as good as boggers, with very budget price  (it was priced for EUR 100-110 at that time)

Btw, I have difficulty imagining any tire being louder than the original Goodyear Suregrip's.
Sounds tempting....:))))
(in an overland oldtimer-rally, I got nick-named 'The Tank', just for the sound....)
< insert tune Sam Cook / Working on a Chain >

Btw, metaphysically speaking, lots of noise is good.
Because any energy output in sound means lesser output in heat/squirming....;))

Zitat von: WJM am 24.Oktober 2016 17:20:20

Zitat von: Irakli am 18.Oktober 2016 19:1:53 Zitat von: WJM am 17.Oktober 2016 01:38:35 Btw, in the Belshina PDF catalog, I see also a 12.4-16 (FBel-160M), 930mm tall, but A6 (30km/h), not A8. http://www.belshina.eu/en/tyres-for-tractors-and-implements Thank you for correcting the link. That is the tyre - FBel-160M, maximum speed 30km/h? maybe that is the reason why they are so loud after 75km/h ) actually they are very good in the mud, almost as good as boggers, with very budget price  (it was priced for EUR 100-110 at that time) Btw, I have difficulty imagining any tire being louder than the original Goodyear Suregrip's. Sounds tempting....:)))) (in an overland oldtimer-rally, I got nick-named 'The Tank', just for the sound....) < insert tune Sam Cook / Working on A Chain > Btw, metaphysically speaking, lots of noise is good. Because any energy output in sound means lesser output in heat/squirming....;))

You are right, if you are stuck in deep sand or in mud, or on the rock (like in the video below), lowering pressure in tires makes no sense  . 

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jzgweyi5H0Y

My friend installed central pressure system on Volvo portals. I can post photos if you are interested.

Zitat von: Irakli am 27.Oktober 2016 18:0:26

Zitat von: WJM am 24.Oktober 2016 17:20:20 Zitat von: Irakli am 18.Oktober 2016 19:1:53 Zitat von: WJM am 17.Oktober 2016 01:38:35 Btw, in the Belshina PDF catalog, I see also a 12.4-16 (FBel-160M), 930mm tall, but A6 (30km/h), not A8. http://www.belshina.eu/en/tyres-for-tractors-and-implements Thank you for correcting the link. That is the tyre - FBel-160M, maximum speed 30km/h? maybe that is the reason why they are so loud after 75km/h ) actually they are very good in the mud, almost as good as boggers, with very budget price  (it was priced for EUR 100-110 at that time) Btw, I have difficulty imagining any tire being louder than the original Goodyear Suregrip's. Sounds tempting....:)))) (in an overland oldtimer-rally, I got nick-named 'The Tank', just for the sound....) < insert tune Sam Cook / Working on A Chain > Btw, metaphysically speaking, lots of noise is good. Because any energy output in sound means lesser output in heat/squirming....;)) You are right, if you are stuck in deep sand or in mud, or on the rock (like in the video below), lowering pressure in tires makes no sense  .  www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jzgweyi5H0Y

Aha....have known this video for some years (possibly posted here, by you), but never noticed the tires....;))
Nicely 'square' too.

Zitat:

My friend installed central pressure system on Volvo portals. I can post photos if you are interested.

Yes, please....I am sure many others will be interested too.

I once enquired about that with a German manufacturer of custom OTIS components; he thought our Volvo's were actually designed/prepared for that from the start, by having a (plugged) hole exactly in the center of the hub, on the inside.
(I tried countering him with other/alternative arguments/purposes, but he was very sure that this was the main application of such a centered hole....:))

My enthousiasm for such a system became a bit dampened though, after I ran an experiment with the Goodyear Suregrips, in a miserable attempt to lower their pressure (in an attempt to lower the rear bumper under 70cm, a safety requirement when registering the vehicle in Holland (did not want the hassle of (the also possible) exception procedure, and only needed 2-3cm....but alas, by tire pressure alone this was not meant to be....8-))

(but I did not give up; stuffed 6 spare wheels inside, remounted all the previously removed ballast (seats, toolracks, winch) and filled the 900L watertank (the weight measurement procedure (barely <3500kg) was already done first time; when returning to the DOT-station to have a second opinion on previously failed items, nobody cared about weight anymore....:))

Btw, before I forget:

Seeing you have a steering-knob, you probably also have powersteering, right?

What kind of setup?

Collumn-booster (a la Danfoss TAD100 / TAD150), versus ramsteer (linear, not foolproof longterm (wear/play)) or even some OEM 'Zweck-Entfremdung'?
(seems the one from Mercedes G is a (tight) fit?)

Zitat von: WJM am 28.Oktober 2016 16:37:14

Btw, before I forget: Seeing you have a steering-knob, you probably also have powersteering, right? What kind of setup? Collumn-booster (a la Danfoss TAD100 / TAD150), versus ramsteer (linear, not foolproof longterm (wear/play)) or even some OEM 'Zweck-Entfremdung'? (seems the one from Mercedes G is a (tight) fit?)

Your observation is correct I have installed Opel Corsa B (oder C?) Power steering. quite easy installation (maybe not legal in your country without further tests through)
Power steering looks like:  http://media.turbosport.co.uk/2006/4/2006041019507937928.gif

In addition control unit is needed, which I found in UK. It is one of several offers:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Corsa-B-C-Kit-Electric-power-steering-controller-box-With-ECU-plug-EPAS-/181681672736

Servo works well when tires are above 1 bar, however when pressure is 0.5-0.7 Bar it seems to lacks power, Another drawback is that it needs 12V so now is connected to one of the battery. I tried 24-12V converter but with peak requirement of 40-50 A, my converters were not sufficient.

I will get photos as soon as I visit my friends garage.
Greetings from Georgia.

Zitat von: Irakli am 30.Oktober 2016 20:54:51

Zitat von: WJM am 28.Oktober 2016 16:37:14 Btw, before I forget: Seeing you have a steering-knob, you probably also have powersteering, right? What kind of setup? Collumn-booster (a la Danfoss TAD100 / TAD150), versus ramsteer (linear, not foolproof longterm (wear/play)) or even some OEM 'Zweck-Entfremdung'? (seems the one from Mercedes G is a (tight) fit?) Your observation is correct I have installed Opel Corsa B (oder C?) Power steering. quite easy installation (maybe not legal in your country without further tests through) Power steering looks like:  http://media.turbosport.co.uk/2006/4/2006041019507937928.gif In addition control unit is needed, which I found in UK. It is one of several offers: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Corsa-B-C-Kit-Electric-power-steering-controller-box-With-ECU-plug-EPAS-/181681672736 Servo works well when tires are above 1 bar, however when pressure is 0.5-0.7 Bar it seems to lacks power, Another drawback is that it needs 12V so now is connected to one of the battery. I tried 24-12V converter but with peak requirement of 40-50 A, my converters were not sufficient. I will get photos as soon as I visit my friends garage. Greetings from Georgia.

There is a Dutch company doing various 'PS-electrifications' for oldtimers, back then only 12v, but pushed by Japanese electro-frenzy, in cargo-sector, also 24v options.

Using single-sided 12v from 24v is bad practise, even for small drains like radio....on this level, it must be catastrophic, for both batteries (one will never become full (bad/plate-corrosion), the other will become too full (bad/cooking).
That said, what you need, cq the much better (more elegant) solution is a battery-equalizer/charge-balancer....continuously, they can compensate up to 100A, intermittently just as much as you can recharge in the remaining time (200A in 50/50 cyclus, 300 in 25/75 cyclus, 900 in 10/90 cyclus).
(check the advertisement on my bottom signature....still have some 100A units left, both new and used)
(only alternative, for intermittent use, would be a separate 12v battery, charged from the 24v set, through a 24v->12v (*charging*) converter.)
(or a completely separate 12v setup, including second alternator)

Thank you for the offer and usefull information. I know that this is not an elegant solution. I used 2 paired 20A converters made by Samlex America,  but that was not sufficient.

I will certainly consider you offer, some other Chinese and US made converters are marketed on Amazon. Currently I am considering possibility to install "shorter" steering box with electric or hydraulic servo for competition use.

Zitat von: Irakli am 31.Oktober 2016 17:27:47

Thank you for the offer and usefull information. I know that this is not an elegant solution. I used 2 paired 20A converters made by Samlex America,  but that was not sufficient.

'Samlex' sounds like the ribbed old-style 'heat-stoves', with 50% efficiency....;))
(meaning in your case 12v/40A output, 24v/40A input....8-))
(the (potential) continuous drain on the batteries, when driving/manoeuvering offroad, in combination with relatively low engine rpm (= alternator output) is what still makes me hesitate to embrace electric power steering, even without such horrific converter efficiency....;))

(unless you have a big dedicated battery as 'PS-buffer' only)
(although, now that I think about it, it could still *also* function as the recreational batteries (for running a compressor fridge and/or a fuel-driven heater), at standstill))
(but it then must be a true AGM, being capable of both high-amps, low-amps and deep drains)
(and no heavy offroad/manoeuvering/steering before parking for the night....:))

Zitat:

I will certainly consider you offer, some other Chinese and US made converters are marketed on Amazon. Currently I am considering possibility to install "shorter" steering box with electric or hydraulic servo for competition use.

Btw, I have also pondered about combining electric with hydraulic/collumn-booster, just to have max reinforcement on demand (the electric unit can be switched off without ill consequences; the collumn-booster doesn't like that, gets *very* heavy to steer (although a regular hydraulic unit can also be remarkably unwilling (anyone ever been towed, sitting in a heavy vehicle with no running engine (= no PS), knows how nervewracking that can be....8-))

Also, if you ever do go with hydraulic collumn-booster (Danfoss), try to get your hands on the TAD150, being significantly stronger than the regular/more-common TAD100 (but you also need a stronger pump than the Vickers also used in the Volvo Bandvagn 202).