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Autor | Thema: C304/OM603 build in USA (Gelesen 20906 mal) | |||
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Yitzac,
Many years ago, I was asked to install an OM603A into a TGB1314 utilizing the SMT conversion kit. Unfortunately, the motor supplied had major internal and external damage so the owner scrapped the idea and gave me the broken truck. I then installed an OM617A with good result. I have always wondered about how things might have been different had we gone forward with the OM603A swap after all. I enjoy watching your progress. Where in the United States are you located? I am in rural NW Oregon and my wife, Emilie, and I host Northwest MogFest on our farm, "Waldersee" every August. This year will be our 20th annual event. All European high mobility vehicles are welcome and we expect at least a dozen Volvo C30X trucks at our 2019 event. I wish you the very best on your conversion. Take care. Jim Molloy Waldersee Farm Sheridan, Oregon USA http://www.northwestmogfest.com | ||||
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Good to hear from someone else in the US! we are located in North Alabama. Have you ever done the Gambler 500 up there? I think we are going to try to make the one in Tennessee in September. Sorry but I think Oregon is a bit too far from alabama, but it sounds like a great time! If this c304 was mine, I would probably try putting a v8 in haha
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big milestone: the engine is in! well, sort of... Since we upgraded the alternator to a GM alternator (which is most likely much bigger than a 1975 volvo alternator), there is VERY little clearance between it and the frame rail. and the exhaust manifold also has very little clearance. because of this, we are thinking of switching from rubber motor mounts to some custom solid mounts so the engine doesn't wiggle around and knock the alternator on the frame. From these pictures, it is resting in its new home. The trans/TC is bolted in place, but the front of the engine still needs to come up a bit before making final decisions on motor mounts. in some areas, there are tons of room! in other areas, things are coming very, very close. overall it was a very tight squeeze but we got it in finally!
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Looks very impressive! did you use the SMT-conversion set? was the engine with manual or automatic gearbox?
I didn't read all of your posts yet - sorry for stupid questions in this case.. | ||||
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Yes, the SMT kit was used. some modifications had to be made still to accommodate everything, but so far it has worked out well. This has a manual transmission...did they even make automatic transmission in these?? There is not much left to do to get it running....fuel lines, heater hoses, and some wiring!
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No, this is how they are supposed to work. They are powered by separate electromotors with separate relays and switches. Why should they work in unison? The only thing missing is an interval switch. | ||||
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Me thinks the above could be construed to contain some confusion cq potential misunderstanding as to *which* engine (once) came with manual and/or automatic transmission....B30/Volvo(-general) versus C3-Series-specific (then also required to mate to the T-case) versus this Mercedes.... (which then still has this mating issue, apart from nearly always existing in both manual & automatic; both aspects make it unlikely this was your question about, but not without pondering & deduction....;)) NB: TTBOMK, in modern MB's, the last/strongest manual diesel came in the C320cdi....all else (both larger engines & series!) is default automatic. (sadly I have no clue whatsoever to which other MB engines this gearbox also mates (which then would be at least a solution for transplants in G-wagen & Pinzgauer....:)) (having detached/separate/autonomous T-cases)) Willem (semantics rules the world) Jan | ||||
*Verkaufe Battery-Equalizer/Charge-Balancer/Wandler 24->12v/100A* Those who wander are not necessarily lost J.R.R. Tolkien ...and not all who launder are washed/WJ....;)) <w.j.markerink@A1.NL>
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so the engine is finally actually in. we got some universal rubber engine mounts and got those installed a few nights ago. also, got a lot of wiring done, and installed the key and switch panel! The fuel pump and all fuel lines are installed, as well as fuel tank with new VDO level sender, and taillight wiring. I need some large gauge ring terminals to finish up the battery to d-block wiring, and then start running wires to the fuse panel for other things like headlights, wipers, etc....
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I may have missed this previously but are your planning to continue to run the original 24v electrical components and use a separate 12v system for engine starting and management or going with an entire 12v system. If you do plan to go 12v completely, I am very interested in purchasing any and all of your 24v components.
Your conversion is shaping up quite nicely. Please keep the progress notes and photos coming. Take care! Jim Molloy Waldersee Farm Sheridan, Oregon http://www.northwestmogfest.com | ||||
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when my buddy originally got the C304, it was already converted (sloppily) to 12v system. so 1. we are keeping it all 12v and 2. he does not have any original 24v stuff. sorry!!
I am completely re-wiring the entire thing to "start fresh". We even made up a CID (cable interconnect diagram) of the entire vehicle to have on hand! | ||||
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I got the heater hoses ran, diff and transfer case vacuum lines ran, and installed a multi-function turn signal stalk. turned out pretty well with the custom bracket I made for it! Awaiting some large gauge ring terminals for main battery connections, and a relay box to hold all the relays for the accessories and such. Also got the driveshafts and parking brake reinstalled, all went on and is working well (as far as I can tell)
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most recent work on this C304 consisted of receiving the custom gauge panel (designed by me, machined by a friend), putting the gauges in (still waiting on a 4th small gauge), and also doing a bit of exhaust work.
Here is the blank panel: Here it is with gauges in: and here it is in the vehicle: | ||||
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The instrument cluster looks very nice.
Are the nine small holes destined to be mounting holes for switches? If so, what switches have you chosen? Would it be possible to have you list all seven of the VDO gauges with their specific six digit (XXX XXX) part number? Do you plan to mount the panel directly to the body work or raise the face up similar to the standard configuration? Excellent work! Take care. Jim Molloy | ||||
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Thank you very much! I designed the panel myself with nothing but approximate measurements of the volvo's "frame" haha.
The 9 holes will be LED indicators, and 1 of them will be a "hidden" start button. The owner wants the start button to match the LEDs so they all look the same. We have yet to pick out specific LEDs and a button, so I left them as pilot holes. They can be drilled out to whatever size we need at a later time. This way, the spacing is already perfectly where we want them. I planned on mounting the panel directly to the frame in the volvo. You said that the face being raised is standard? interesting...the previous owner of the volvo made his own gauge and switch panel also, but we didnt realize those 1" spacers were standard. We thought those were added by the PO. The part numbers are as follows: Speedo: cant find part number (but closest match would be A2C53194639-S) Tach: A2C53194593-S Multi: A2C81561900-S Boost: A2C53417177-S EGT: A2C53210907-K Outside temp: A2C53210847-K I am personally not a fan of VDO, because you have to buy the bezels separately, along with the senders separately too...but those are what he bought. | ||||
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well finally got some more 0 AWG ring terminals to hook up the battery so I was able to turn the motor over to check starter function and it works great! Also got a universal relay box in so I can get all the relays wired up and ready to go! Not too much longer now before it will be running!
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ITS ALIVE!!! started up the volvo for the first time in YEARS yesterday and it ran great! I will try to take video later today and put it online. Until then, here are finally some more general pictures of the vehicle.
interior shot on passenger side. Normally the brake reservoir is located in the middle "section" but I had to relocate it to make room for the ignition switch and switch panel. Also as of last night (after these pictures were taken), there is a relay center under the dash of the passenger side. a general side view again kid tested, mother approved! | ||||
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I got a short video of it running!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgF0YIXPETk I think the brake master cylinder is bad and needs to be rebuilt, because there is NO brake pressure at all, but there is definitely fluid in the lines and no leaks. Once that is fixed, it will be able to drive on the road! | ||||
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I think , better have a look at the brake-boosters.
der Harms | ||||
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are the boosters known to go bad? we think it is the cylinder because there is NO pedal feel at all. so it feels like the master cylinder isnt pushing anything.
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Brake boosters are often defect. master cylinder sometimes. Master cylinders hast got two brake circuits. Both are not working? Do you set correctly the brake shoes? If the distance from brake shoe to the brake drum is to long, there is no pedal feel, too. Claas | ||||
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Michaels-Volvo-Offroader-Forum | ALLGEMEINES | Ausbau / modifications | « vorheriges Thema folgendes Thema » |