The cloth radiator cowling suffered a horrible death, I'm not yet sure why. While I was under the vehicle I noticed there is a 2.5cm gap between the front of the cowling and the radiator. Is this normal with a 2" radiator?



Die Kühlerverkleidung erlitt einen schrecklichen Tod, ich bin mir noch nicht sicher, warum. Als ich unter dem Fahrzeug war, bemerkte ich, dass zwischen der Vorderseite der Motorhaube und dem Kühler ein Spalt von 2,5 cm war. Ist das bei einem 2-Zoll-Kühler normal?

Maurice

Der Lüftersack ist direkt am Kühler befestigt. Der Spalt ist also nicht normal
Da hat sich scheinbar der Sack gelöst und ist in den Lüfter gekommen

Ah, interessant, jetzt kann man den Sack-so-von der Seite sehen
Gruß Christian
     

Aua ... 

So, I purchased a replacement at Tatanka. However when I finally removed the old one, I realised that they are not the same size. The old one is 52 x 44 cm while the new one is 50 x 46.5 cm. The old one was bolted to the body, just like the diagram in the parts catalogue. Apparently that's very uncommon, when I asked Claes at Tatanka about it he replied "I have never in my many years with these cars seen the bolted version".





So, there are now three possibilities: (1) No bellows, (2) Claes finds one the correct size, (3) I change the mounting.

However I have no reference. Can anyone explain or show how their bellows is attached if it's not bolted?

******

Also kaufte ich bei Tatanka einen Ersatz. Als ich den alten schließlich entfernte, stellte ich jedoch fest, dass sie nicht die gleiche Größe haben. Der alte ist 52 x 44 cm groß, während der neue 50 x 46,5 cm groß ist. Der alte war an die Karosserie geschraubt, genau wie im Diagramm im Ersatzteilkatalog. Anscheinend ist das sehr ungewöhnlich, denn als ich Claes bei Tatanka danach fragte, antwortete er: „Ich habe in meinen vielen Jahren mit diesen Autos noch nie die geschraubte Version gesehen.“

Es gibt also jetzt drei Möglichkeiten: (1) Kein Balg, (2) Claes findet einen in der richtigen Größe oder (3) ich ändere die Halterung.

Ich habe jedoch keine Referenz. Kann jemand erklären oder zeigen, wie sein Balg befestigt ist, wenn er nicht geschraubt ist?

Danke / Thanks
Mo

the Radiator size  beetwen TGB 11 and TGB 20 are different
also in the Militäry sparelist are Two versions listet: with auxiliary bar  from  Cassi 1474 at the Side  and without until 1473

Hi Mo,

I can confirm the observation you've shared, as this is exactly what it looked like on my Longbody. The fan shroud was attached to some kind of metal frame, which was in turn bolted to the L-profiles in the engine bay. Thus I can also confirm the gap between the fan shroud and the radiator itself.

In one of my older threads I've shown the process of making a new fan shroud out of glass fibre for my electrical fan conversion and mounted it in the original position in the engine bay. The third picture from the bottom shows the new fan shroud bolted in place.
https://www.c303.de/c303-forum/index.php?board=35;action=display;threadid=12860

I've neither had any thermal issues with the original setup nor the electrical fan conversion including a 3" radiator. Obviously the other version directly clamped to the radiator is supposed the perform better, but I wouldn't "mind the gap"

Best regards
Sven

Zitat von: Whatever am 1.August 2024 17:24:28

I can confirm the observation you've shared, as this is exactly what it looked like on my Longbody.

Thanks, that's really helpful. We now know that this was designed for a 3" radiator. I still don't understand how my bellows got trapped by the fan though

Zitat von: DaniCEE am 1.August 2024 16:32:5

the Radiator size  beetwen TGB 11 and TGB 20 are different also in the Militäry sparelist are Two versions listet: with auxiliary bar  from  Cassi 1474 at the Side  and without until 1473

I knew that the bellows was superseded but I didn't think it was relevant as my chassis no is *3190*





Are you suggesting that the radiator was also superseded, and that the later-type bellows attaches directly to the radiator? If that's true then my options become:

(1) No bellows
(2) Use another older-type bellows
(3) Use a later-type radiator and bellows
(4) Falling all the way down the rabbit hole, fit an electric fan

Option 3 would appear to be the best choice. I already have the later-type bellows, could fit a recored radiator with higher cooling capacity and can eliminate the 1" gap improving cooling even futher.

Let's see what Claes has to say next week.

Maurice

Zitat von: Mo am 3.August 2024 10:15:33

Zitat von: Whatever am 1.August 2024 17:24:28 I can confirm the observation you've shared, as this is exactly what it looked like on my Longbody. Thanks, that's really helpful. We now know that this was designed for a 3" radiator. I still don't understand how my bellows got trapped by the fan though [...]

AFAIK both Longbody variants (TGB13 and TGB1321) were originally equipped with the 2" radiator just like all the other TGB11 or TGB13xx variants. I only upgraded to a 3" radiator myself during fan conversion. Maybe that was not exactly clear from my previous post.

It's clear, thanks. Volvo's original design was based on a 3" radiator but the TGB 11xx and 13xx were fitted with 2" radiators, and have a gap between the radiator and the bellows. Perhaps it was a late specification change? You can certainly see and understand why they changed the design. I just wish it was documented a bit better.

Mo

Zitat von: Mo am 3.August 2024 13:59:41

It's clear, thanks. Volvo's original design was based on a 3" radiator but the TGB 11xx and 13xx were fitted with 2" radiators, and have a gap between the radiator and the bellows. Perhaps it was a late specification change? You can certainly see and understand why they changed the design. I just wish it was documented a bit better. Mo

Not sure whether that was (meant as) a late change within TGB11/13, but FWIW, not only TGB20 (= late/>1980) had 3" radiator, but also *all* civil, and *all* Malaysian, probably African & Austrralian, most likely any market outside Europe/North-America (no military sales in EU nor NA, so those were all civil anyway).

Also, FWIW, the correlation between 3" radiator and 10" clutch is 100%, AFAIK (civil + TGB20)....
(the only other easy to recognise civil element is 12v, cq unlike TGB20).

Für Deutsch scrollen Sie nach unten.

Small update. I can confirm that without the bellows the vehicle overheats while stationary, so option (1) is not viable.

I'm still unsure how the later-type bellows is attached, and whether replacing the radiator will help. If anyone can explain or upload a photo of how the bellows is attached it would be very helpful.

Meanwhile, since I haven't yet heard from Tatanka, I'm wondering if I can adapt the later-type bellows to the older-type mounting points. As the new bellows is 2cm narrower than the old one I assume I could use a 2cm wide plate at each side to bridge the gap (#63 in the diagram above). Screw the bellows to the plate and the plate to the body. This will place more load on the mounting screws so they may have to be replaced by something stronger.

It also occurred to me that if I use a 2cm by 2cm block instead of a thin plate, I can move the bellows closer to the radiator and eliminate the gap noted in my first post. This will not only improve cooling efficiency but also reduce the risk that loose fabric could be sucked into the fan again.

What do you think?

*****

Kleines Update. Ich kann bestätigen, dass das Fahrzeug ohne den Balg im Stand überhitzt, sodass Option (1) nicht praktikabel ist.

Ich bin mir immer noch nicht sicher, wie der neuere Balg befestigt ist und ob es hilft, den Kühler auszutauschen. Wenn jemand erklären oder ein Foto hochladen kann, wie der Balg befestigt ist, wäre das sehr hilfreich.

Da ich noch nichts von Tatanka gehört habe, frage ich mich inzwischen, ob ich den neueren Balg an die Befestigungspunkte des älteren Typs anpassen kann. Da der neue Balg 2 cm schmaler ist als der alte, gehe ich davon aus, dass ich auf jeder Seite eine 2 cm breite Platte verwenden könnte, um die Lücke zu überbrücken (Nr. 63 im obigen Diagramm). Schrauben Sie den Balg an die Platte und die Platte an die Karosserie. Dadurch werden die Befestigungsschrauben stärker belastet, sodass sie möglicherweise durch etwas Stärkeres ersetzt werden müssen.

Mir ist auch eingefallen, dass ich den Balg näher an den Kühler bewegen und die in meinem ersten Beitrag erwähnte Lücke schließen kann, wenn ich anstelle einer dünnen Platte einen 2 cm x 2 cm großen Block verwende. Dadurch verbessert sich nicht nur die Kühlleistung, sondern es verringert sich auch das Risiko, dass loses Gewebe wieder in den Lüfter gesaugt wird.

Was meinen Sie?

Mo

Ich habe in einem alten Thread (https://www.c303.de/c303-forum/index.php?board=12;action=display;threadid=13416) ein Foto eines Kühlers gefunden. Auf der Rückseite des Kühlers befinden sich auf jeder Seite drei Laschen. Dienen diese zur Befestigung des Balgs?





Ich werde prüfen, ob mein Heizkörper derselbe ist.

Mo

Bestätigt, dass mein Kühler auf beiden Seiten keine drei Laschen hat. (Sie können auch den Winkel sehen, an dem der alte Balg verschraubt war.)





Kann jemand bestätigen, wie der Balg neueren Typs von unten gestützt wird?

Maurice