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Autor | Thema: 75/70W headlight bulbs (Gelesen 1511 mal) | |||
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I must change my headlights (I'm in the UK). I'm wondering if I should replace the original 55/50W bulbs with 75/70W bulbs at the same time. I searched the forum but didn't find any discussion. Has anyone done this already? Will I melt the sockets or the wires?
Thanks Maurice | ||||
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The original 50/55W - 24v BiLux bulbs are bordering on criminal. So changing to 70/75W H4 is the only sane way forward. Mind you: for *24* volt *Halogen*, 70/75W is the physical/optical minimum. Less is not possible, for the filament becoming A) too restrictive, meaning B) either too thin (breakage) or C) too long (bad optics). That said: within that same 24v, we are looking at just a measly/meager 75W/24v = 3A....*any* wire can take that, even 1mm^2. (which no car headlight electrics should ever have anyway) (1,5mm^2 seems minimum, 2,5mm^2 is good....for *12v* even (so almost overkill for 24v) (spent quite some time discussing how to improve light-power on Mercedes W124....seems the main problem is not having relais, running the full power all the way through the steering collumn switch) (me thinking only crappy French cars were this criminal) (once had smoke coming out of a Renault R5 steering collumn....8-)) NB: IIRC, you must also change your lamp-glass, as BiLux has a different mounting socket for the bulb than H4 Halogen....just won't fit, or worse, lock in place in the wrong orientation. (the optics inside are just different, more than just the power, so one could argue *any* (each & every) orientation would be wrong, somehow) NB2: when changing the glass, be sure you get the flat-most sphere, especially if you still have the factory headlight wipers. On mine, civil/firetruck, the firebrigade once replaced 1 glass with a more spherical one, and the wiper on that side would not clear the glass, get stuck. Took me quite some time to figure out this crucial difference....8-)) NB3: A similar 'optical' problem occurs in large projection bulbs, 1000-1500W....these come typically in 110V, not 220V, for the simple reason that 220V would require a more restrictive/higher-resistance wire, also either more thin (breakage/life-expectancy), or longer (bad optics). (the smart part was that these often also came not as applications/devices with just 1x 1000-1500W, but 4-6x, so they had to be fed from 380/400V power sockets anyway, stepped down to 110V by big oilcooled transformators/regulators....:)) NB3: Some decades ago, Canadian authorities/DOT did not allow more than 50/55W in general, for cars....which then became a problem for 24v vehicles like cold-spec Land Cruiser diesels....their only solution at that time was to run 12v bulbs from each separate battery, creating a whole bunch of new electrical problems. (I now vaguely recall they even (initially?) ran the 12v bulbs in series, even more fucked up, devoid of even the most basic electrical sanity) (if one bulb goes, both bulbs go....) | ||||
*Verkaufe Battery-Equalizer/Charge-Balancer/Wandler 24->12v/100A* Those who wander are not necessarily lost J.R.R. Tolkien ...and not all who launder are washed/WJ....;)) <w.j.markerink@A1.NL>
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Search Land Rover headlights 7 Inch
Regards Christian | ||||
Warum nur einen Volvo, wenn man auch zwei haben kann
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Thanks, your thinking is very similar to mine.
I already bought headlights to fit the old bulbs, they were cheap, GBP20 for two (model LUB322). I assume they're old stock. It was only after I'd bought them that I thought about changing the bulbs That the beam pattern could be different never occurred to me. Hopefully the bulbs I've bought (model LLB024) will fit properly, if not then I'll have to stick with the originals for a while longer. Thanks Maurice | ||||
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Not sure why anyone should consider The Lord of Darkness, but both Hella & Bosch also have a matching headlight unit....;))
(I *think* the 'extra-spherical' one on mine was from Bosch though) | ||||
*Verkaufe Battery-Equalizer/Charge-Balancer/Wandler 24->12v/100A* Those who wander are not necessarily lost J.R.R. Tolkien ...and not all who launder are washed/WJ....;)) <w.j.markerink@A1.NL>
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For that genuine 1970's experience of course Especially if I keep the original bulbs Lucas are much easier to find in the UK than Hella, and I thought I couldn't go wrong with just a sealed beam unit. Also as I wrote earlier, they were cheap. Famous last words? Perhaps. Should still be better than a no-brand version I hope. Maurice | ||||
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Sealed beam would indeed be a pre (but the only one) when mudbogging or other submarine activities....:)) However, I surmise that Lucas only made them sealed to keep the internal corrosion in check, *somewhat*....:)) | ||||
*Verkaufe Battery-Equalizer/Charge-Balancer/Wandler 24->12v/100A* Those who wander are not necessarily lost J.R.R. Tolkien ...and not all who launder are washed/WJ....;)) <w.j.markerink@A1.NL>
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Is there a trick to remove the headlight assembly? The service manual simply says "remove the retaining screw" and "lift forwards the rim and insert". Mine do not want to move...
Thanks Maurice | ||||
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Sticky from both rust & paint (imagine decades of overzealous painting by bored & lazy drafted soldiers (speaking from experience; my APV gained multiple kilo's of paint each 'service'....:)) You could consider pulling on the glass with some kind of vacuum device, probably even a sewer-/toilet-plunger....:)) | ||||
*Verkaufe Battery-Equalizer/Charge-Balancer/Wandler 24->12v/100A* Those who wander are not necessarily lost J.R.R. Tolkien ...and not all who launder are washed/WJ....;)) <w.j.markerink@A1.NL>
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I have green paint on the glass itself so I expect you're right. I just wasn't sure if you had to lift then pull or do some other "kung fu" manoeuvre. The toilet plunger is a good idea, I'll try that tomorrow. I was in the navy so painting was usually necessary, and actually a pleasant job to have, at least in the summer. Bored sailors get to peel potatoes, or if they've really annoyed someone, polish brass... Maurice | ||||
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Try to cut/pry/hammer the ring from the body panel with a thin blade, like a paint scraper. Might have to redo the paint on both body & ring, but that's the safest direction of (initial) force, at or least the smartest, before applying a vacuum plunger. | ||||
*Verkaufe Battery-Equalizer/Charge-Balancer/Wandler 24->12v/100A* Those who wander are not necessarily lost J.R.R. Tolkien ...and not all who launder are washed/WJ....;)) <w.j.markerink@A1.NL>
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Success! Surprised how difficult they were to remove. I've fitted the new RHD inserts and 75W bulbs. Lens curvature is the same, at least to the naked eye.
Waiting on new relays before I refit them. Maurice | ||||
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Michaels-Volvo-Offroader-Forum | SPEZIELLE THEMEN | Elektrik / electricity | « vorheriges Thema folgendes Thema » |